I arrived shortly after opening so there were very few other people wandering around on a windy and overcast morning. The arrival was by design as I could not wait any longer to see them and I wanted to beat the crowed. The weather was cold and unfortunate but not unexpected in early Spring on the side of a mountain.
After passing the entrance there is a large balcony and some cages with some foxes in them. I had read there were some in cages that were breeding or had some behavior issues but these were there as a temporary place where they waited for holding sessions. They give you a plastic poncho and you can hold one of these foxes on your lap and pet them (while under supervision by staff of course).
Slightly past the deck they had other animals, goats, rabbits and even crows. I visited them briefly hoping to find the main fox area which was behind me.
After opening the gates to the fox area I was very impressed by the number and variety of foxes present in this really large fenced in area. Most were sleeping on shelves or on the ground while a few were walking around.
As I explored they started to awaken and become more active. After about an hour of taking pictures and admiring my fury friends I decided to go inside and buy them some carrots. The gift shop held tons of treasures which I decided I would explore more fully on my way out. After buying 3 little bags of carrots I headed back out to the feeding area which is in the center and in an elevated building.
I tossed carrots down to the foxes who swarmed from nearby. Others spotted me feeding them and also decided to buy carrots and join in the fun. The foxes became very lively. A few showed their Alpha nature so I decided to distract them with some food and quickly fed the foxes that were less aggressive. The white foxes seem to be the least aggressive in general.
It is good to pay attention to what they are doing. Foxes are very curious by nature and have been known to steal from visitors things like lens caps, bags, wallets, cell phones... I had my back turned to one and was taking picture then I felt something on my shoe. A fox had come around from behind me and was licking my shoe and then decided to take a little nibble. Lucky for me it was just a curious little soft bite so I asked it not to make a chew toy out of my foot and stepped away. It gave me a curious look and followed along my side as I walked around for a while but was not aggressive in anyway after that.
As the morning turned to afternoon I decided to leave and go visit Shiroishi Castle. Bidding my Foxey friend goodbye. I washed my shoes for good measure, bought some fox souvenirs and requested a cab from the young lady at the desk and bought some coffee while I waited. The cab arrived soon and took me to my next destination.
People will have various opinions about Zao Fox Village as most view the village as a zoo and have mixed feelings about zoos and captive animals. I felt the people working at Zao Fox Village really loves the foxes under their care and treat them extremely well. They all looked well fed and were protected from farmers/hunters and loss of habitat out in nature. Here at the village their injuries are treated if needed unlike in nature and they had reliable food. In nature many consider them a nuisance. I think if you hate the concept of a zoo then this is probably not a place that you should visit but if you are okay with animals living in semi captivity then you will likely love the Fox Village.
I personally went with very high expectations and I left very happy. I will probably not visit again but only because of the cost and distance involved in visiting. I will always remember my time spent at Zao Fox Village fondly and highly recommend a visit by anyone who really loves foxes.
]]>I traveled to Japan again in April of this year and one of the main things on my itinerary was visiting Zao Fox Village. I happened across a video of the place and it was love at first sight.
I remember when I was really young there was a movie called "The Glacier Fox". It was a documentary/story of a family of foxes struggling to survive in Japan by Koreyoshi Kurahara. It was one of the most memorable movies I had seen as a child maybe not Star Wars or E.T. but still it made an impact on me.
During my trip planning I saw a fox on a hill for 2 consecutive days. It had been over a decade since I saw a fox around. It felt like a good omen.
Zao Fox Village is in Miyagi Prefecture. The largest major city near it is Sendai so after staying in Tokyo for a week I headed down to Sendai by Sinkansen. It was my first visit to Miyagi Prefecture so I decided to stay several days and explore what the region had to offer (which is a lot).
I took a local express train the next morning to the town of Shiroishi near Mount Zao. The ride took me through beautiful countrysides full of mountains, farms, and rivers lined with blooming cherry blossoms. It was so tempting to jump off the train and walk along the miles of blooming cherry trees but nothing was going to stop my visit to Mt Zao.
I arrived at Shiroishi station an hour after leaving Sendai and caught a taxi in the parking lot. The Txi took me over a beautiful river and up the winding road of Mt Zao. The entrance to the Fox Village was full of fox statues. The driver of the cab handed me a paper to call the taxi cab back after I was done. I just needed to pass it to the staff and they would call me a cab if none were around.
Inside I was greeted by a cheerful older lady who I bought a ticket from. She showed me various warning signs and offered to sell me some carrots to feed the foxes. I declined at that time as I was very eager to explore.
I will update the remainder of my trip to Mt Zao soon in part 2 of my experience at Mt Zao Fox Village in a couple of days...
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Ameyokocho had a really lively feel. It was full of tourists and locals alike all mingling together searching out good deals on food, clothes and other items. I noticed a lot of foreigners both selling food and trying to get people to go into shops. Some of them were a bit aggressive for Japan I thought but people mostly ignored them.
There was a large mix of fresh a prepared food around and it seemed a great destination for a cheap and delicious meal. Judging by the looks on peoples faces thy were enjoying the food a lot. I was not really hungry so I mostly jus explored an took photos.
There were several adult shops in the area. They seemed to be located in the alley ways and seemed pretty busy even early in the morning. It really added to the lively gritty feel to the area.
After I had explored all the streets and alleys near the station I decided to pick up a couple of souvenirs and head over to Ginza by foot. I bought a small stuffed Panda and a shoulder bag which was a perfect size for a small camera and my glass cases.
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Along the way though I could not resist a small shrine dedicated to Inari - Gojōten Jinja (Hanazono Inari Jinja). It was not a large shrine but anything related to foxes (Kitsune) is always an attention getter for me.
I saw a couple people at Gojōten Jinja but not many. It seemed most people were just enjoying walking along them pathways and relaxing on the benches. After a quick prayer and a few pictures back to the Zoo saga.
At last I had made it to the zoo... That is when I noticed it was closed for the day. I had somehow forgotten it was closed on Mondays. So... I decided to go explore Ueno and think up plan B. The Ueno Zoo would need to wait 1 more day.
It was not a total loss though. I enjoyed walking in the park and next to the zoo I found Doraemon! It was a tiny amusement park for little kids which brought out the kid in me.
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I made my way to Ueno park which was across the street from the station. I quickly noticed panda signs, logo's toys etc. all over the place. No doubt I was in the right place.
Ueno has an interesting mix of locals and foreigners. It is a bit more gritty than most of the other districts I had been in. I wanted to arrive at the zoo before all the crowds arrived so I made my way in that direction. Along the way I saw a little lake with a temple over to my left and decided to check it out.
The temple turned out to be Bentendo temple. It's shape was very unique and it was surrounded by a lake. I walked around the area. There was some interesting wildlife around the lake. I had planned on photographing animals at the zoo anyway so I went to it and enjoyed the lake.
After shooting some of the local birds I could not resist taking some pictures of the swan shaped boats.
The boat rental place was closed but I spotted a cat sunning itself on the docks. As I leaned in to take a photo a man spoke to me. I thought maybe he wanted to say the docks were closed but he picked up the cat and brought it over to introduce me to it. It was really a good start to the day. I had not spoken to anyone yet that day so it was good to enjoy some chatting on the dock.
After that it was back towards the zoo...
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The Shinkansen train made a huge difference in the time it took to get back to Tokyo compared to the slow moving local train. It was so smooth and before I knew it I was back in Tokyo. I would not have changed anything though. I enjoyed my side trip to visit the home of the Maneki-neko and the slow ride through the country setting of Kanagawa prefecture.
I arrived at Tokyo Station again but this time I decided to walk around Chiyoda ward a little. I really wanted to see the Imperial Palace and the famous Nijubashi bridge. I knew without an appointment I could not tour the palace but that was okay with me I really just wanted to see a few things from the outside was fine. Once I left the station I saw a pair of robots for the famous Robot Restaurant and could not resist a couple pictures.
The downtown was full of expensive stores as it is pretty close to Ginza. The streets were pretty quite though. At least more than I had expected them to be. It was getting a little late in the day at this time. As the sun was starting to set I made quick time to the Imperial Palace for a few photo's of Nujubashi Bridge (Double Bridge)
There were a few people taking pictures but not many. Maybe about 5 or 6 people around. I was a little surprised as it is the most famous bridge in Japan but it was a weekday and kind of late for tourists to visit there maybe...
After my brief visit I decided I would come back again before I left Japan earlier in the day. I enjoyed a peaceful sunset over the moat as I walked over to the Kasumigaseki station and rode back to my hotel.
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At the shrine parents pray for the children's health and good fortune to Ujigami (氏神) the shrines god. A purification rite called "harai" is performed and a shinto prayer "norito" is recited. The Children are dressed in traditional Kimono's and are given a special candy called chitose Ame (千歳飴), which literally translates to thousand year candy.
I really enjoyed the atmosphere of this small shrine. It was a very unexpected side adventure just a few moments away from the castle.
I stuck around for about 15 minutes but it started to sprinkle a little more so I decided to start my walk back towards the station. The area near the station had a number of interesting streets which I enjoyed taking little detours among.
The more I explored Odawara the more I liked it. The pace was very slow and the weather kept alternating between rain and sun. I could easily have spent longer but I still had more planned back in Tokyo and it was time to make my way back to the station.
I could not resist a few photo's while I was on the train of course. Above is a photo I shot from the back of the train. The conductor left for the front of the train for a bit. The countryside was so green!
You can actually see Odawara Castle from the station as it sits upon a small hill escalating it above most of the buildings. It was overcast and starting to sprinkle so I moved pretty quickly to the castle itself hoping to beat rain. It was only a short walk maybe 5-10 minutes at most.
The first thing I noticed was a beautiful red bridge going across the moat and into the castle grounds. There were several people feeding the Koi that were eagerly accepting the free food and attention. Though the castle is a reconstruction that really did not matter much to me. It was really beautiful architecture and I could still feel a rich sense of history.
Inside was what may be called a mini zoo... really it was some cages with animals in them. To be honest I did not stop to look. I moved into a little park where people sat and enjoyed snacks. I paused briefly to change my camera lens and shoot the main castle donjon.
Odawara Castle is one of the most famous castles in Japan. It was home to the Hojo clan and was extremely well fending off attacks by Uesegi Kenshin and Takeda Shingen before finally being defeated by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the Battle of Odawara back in 1590. There was a great museum inside as well as a gift shop.
From the top of the castle a 360 degree view of the city, as well as the ocean and mountains. Due to the clouds I was not able to see as far as I had hoped but it was still beautiful.
The Castle grounds were really beautiful and it was great to just walk around and soak in the history. I am a little surprised by how few people seem to make this a destination when visiting Tokyo. It was not that far and is really incredible. Maybe the fact it is a reconstruction puts people off but even the few original castle have all been repaired at various times. I was very satisfied with my experience at Odawara Castle.
My first stop along the way was Setagaya (世田谷区), a special ward in Tokyo. I have to admit that this was my most challenging adventure among my various trips. I somehow got on the wrong line and had get off at a random station and transfer not once but twice. Maybe I was not as well rested as I thought? I also forgot to bring any map or information.
Despite my delay I made it to Setagaya and had breakfast near the station. I was really looking forward to seeing the Birthplace of Maneki-Neko (Beckoning cat). I got rough directions to Gotoku-ji and just kind of walked in the direction that it was described to me. I found a temple but as I entered was not really sure it was the correct place. It was early and nobody was around so I just kind of looked around hoping I was not completely lost. Unlike other parts I had visited there were very few signs in English as this was mostly a residential area and well away from the hustle of the city.
I enjoyed the calm air and feel of the temple but saw no signs of the famous Maneki-neko. I started to fear I was in the wrong place. Almost ready to go back to the street I saw an area near the cemetery and a few maneki0neko statues. As I rounded a corner I was overwhelmed by hundreds of little Maneki-neko statues!
It was everything I had read and more to see them in person. Even I was surprised at how much fun it was to see these cute statues. As I was there it started to rain so I did not spend a ton of time there. I headed back towards the train station but took a different road. It was my first time in the area so I wanted to experience it as best I could in the short amount of time I was there. There were a lot of beautiful houses and small shops. People just started to fill the streets though most shops were closed still. I did find a little shop next to the station that sold Maneki-neko cookies. I could not resist...
My Hotel was located in Shiba Park so I cut through the park. Again I saw wild cats walking around. Japan has so many of them but they always seem well taken care of.
Checking in was a snap. The service was simply incredible. The concierge was really terrific and they upgraded my room to an amazing corner room on a higher level floor with a breath taking view of Rainbow Bridge and Zojo-ji Temple.
I have to say this was by far the greatest room I ever stayed at. The remote control blinds opening to reveal the amazing views of Tokyo were incredible but maybe my favorite part of my experience was the view from my bathtub. Nothing relaxed me more after a day of walking, climbing, crawling and all the other things photographers do to get a photo than I nice jacuzzi bath with a view.
I spent a brief amount of time in my room soaking it in but the day was still too young to turn in yet so I headed out for more adventure in Tokyo. But seriously this is one of the few places I have stayed that made me really excited to return back to a hotel room again. Normally for me a Hotel room is just a place to sleep and take a shower in so I can leave and have fun elsewhere. This Hotel I could enjoy on a whole different level.
During the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 all the buildings in the garden were destroyed and were not rebuilt so it is purely a garden. Although it was small in comparison to the previous garden I visited it was still very enjoyable. The features were beautiful and the paths took you around the garden in a winding and interesting manner.
It was easy to take in many different perspectives with the circular trails, small hills and little islands.
I was hungry at this point and wanted to visit the Tokyo World Trade Center building. It was just a few minutes walk from the garden. The trade center sits above Hamamatsucho Station. It was on my list because of the observation deck on the top floor and in the basement there were lots of restaurants. I started with a coffee and a little treat at the St. Marc Cafe.
After my delicious lunch I took the elevator to the 40th floor and took in the amazing views of the city. They already had it decorated for Christmas. It was not the perfect time of day and it was not really sunny but the view was still beautiful to me. I regret I did not visit it at night as I am sure it was spectacular but I knew I would be visiting Tokyo tower so it was okay.
I enjoyed the Christmas spirit here and the friendly staff. After taking in the view it was at last time to make my way to the Hotel to check in. A few last photos and I was on my way.
There were some people but it was far from crowded. I remember a family with a young mother and son enjoying finding an insect in the grass. The boy seemed so excited by it and the Mom... well she seemed happy he was happy I am not sure she enjoyed the insect so much herself.
The park is located at the mouth of the Sumida River at Tokyo Bay. The garden features several seawater ponds various paths, and a teahouse built out on a little island. The tradition Japanese garden standing among the skyscrapers of the Shiodome district poses a really interesting contrasting image. You can also catch a view of the Rainbow bridge while walking along the river bank.
While walking around I met a cat at the top of a little hill. As soon as I sat on a bench it came to me. After petting it I decided it was time to head over to Kyu Shiba Rikyu Garden which was a short walk away and on the way to my Hotel.
As I walked away from my little friend though I young couple walked the path and was the next to be greeted by this friendly park ambassador. They seemed a very cute couple and the cat soaked up their attention.
I learned my lesson and booked a reserved seat on the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo. It was much more relaxing knowing that I had a seat and was able to get my luggage tucked away nicely. While on board I met a really nice older woman. We chatted for a long time and the trip went by very quickly. I arranged to sit by the Window but sadly could not get a great view of Mount Fuji due to clouds.
I arrived at Tokyo station and grabbed a taxi to go to my Hotel. It was still too early to check in but I wanted to drop off my suitcase. It was a short 10 minute drive from the station to my Hotel. I was promptly greeted and escorted in where they checked my luggage for me. I was more than ready to explore.
The Hotel is located next to Tokyo Tower ad Zojo-ji. I had visited both of these places before but could not wait to go back to both again. The day was still young so I started with Zojo-ji. Zojo-ji is a famous Buddhist temple founded in 1393 but has roots dating back even further to to about the 8th century. There is a large cemetery with rows of stone statues of children which represent unborn children. The statues are called Jizo. Relatives can choose a statue and decorate it with small clothing some also place small toys. The statues are often accompanied by a small gift for Jizo, who is the guardian of unborn children. It is a sad sight to see so many jizo statues.
Tokyo Tower is an impressive backdrop to the temple. I walked around for about 20 minutes before walking to the subway station and taking the Oedo line to Hama-Rikyo Garden (Hama-Tiryu Teien) in the Chuo ward. It was just a few station away and I read some great things about it.
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The main streets are filled with people busy shopping and dining. There are numerous large department stores mixed with many high end smaller stores. If you are a foodie you have found paradise. There are many generations old places to dine intermingled with new modern restaurants.
I did a little shopping but mainly I just walked around Gion. This trip I did not see any Geisha though in prior trips I was able to get a quick glimpse. That did not put a damper on things though. The architecture is wonderful and it is a great place to people watch. Once I exhausted this though I headed towards one of the areas most famous destinations.
Yasaka Shrine is well known in Kyoto and my timing was perfect. In the short time I was there I was able to see a Wedding and enjoy some delicious street food that was being cooked up.
I have bee to the shrine before but it was also a rushed trip. Next trip to Kyoto I must stay longer here!
I honestly wished I had at least 1 more day just to spend in Gion. Next time I will make sure and do this. As I walked back to my hotel on my final night in Kyoto I was physically exhausted but mentally exhilarated. I reflected on the places that I had revisited during this trip and the new places I discovered. I met several interesting and kind people in Kyoto. There really is nowhere on earth quite like Kyoto!
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Not only is Kyoto station a major railway and transportation hub but it is home a shopping mall, hotel, movie theater, and a department store. It is one of the largest buildings in Japan. Walking into Kyoto station after a long day of visiting ancient buildings and gardens almost feels like you are walking into the future. The architecture and busy feel are really a change of pace.
First thing I did was buy a Manneken Belgium Waffle and some tea and started making my way up a series of escalators to reach the observation level. The observation level is an open air roof area on the top of the building. Along the way of course I stopped for a few photo opportunities.
The observation deck is like a park. Several people were there enjoying the fresh air and trees while sitting on park benches. You can see most all of Kyoto from there including Kyoto Tower which is just a short distance away. There was a young mom playing with her kid, some young lovers and some seniors scattered around. It was very peaceful and the weather was beautiful.
I did a little shopping in the department store and walked around for a while. I decided to have lunch at an Italian restaurant there. It was really popular. I ended up being seated next to a group of schoolgirls. I was amazed how much food they ordered the entire table was loaded with dishes but they finished it all.
After my visit to the station I walked across the street to Yodabashi the land of electronics. No matter how many times I go to Yodabashi I am always blown away by the incredible amount of electronics they have. It is nearly endless. I picked up an extra memory card and then walked around central Kyoto for a while learning the streets and checking out interesting shops as I walked around.
After wearing out my feet I headed back to my hotel room for a bit of a rest.
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During my walk from the station I found a school with some really fun statues out front and could not resist taking some pictures.
I pretty much just followed the heard of people. Tsuten-kyo bridge was the first part of the temple that I noticed as I approached. There were a lot of people posing for photos and admiring the wonderful timeless architecture of the bridge. It was one of the things that stood out in my mind most from my previous trip as well. The wooden bridge really has such style.
I am not sure what it was but I felt a little disoriented walking around Tofuku-ji. I just sort of meandered around in no particular direction. I am pretty sure that I missed a lot which is a shame but what I did see was really outstanding. Though Tsuten-kyo is my favorite part of Tofuku-ji the zen garden Kaizando Hall is also just beautiful. This area is a must see. I sat there about 15 minutes just soaking in the atmosphere.
There are a number of paths that take you around the complex and bring you amongst the momiji trees. The air was just so clean and fresh smelling I really felt energized as I took my time walking the pathways.
After walking around I headed back to the same station. On the way I saw a sign for another small temple so I popped in. There was nobody else there. The garden was really lovely. I felt I found a little hidden treasure.
After taking a few photos and enjoying the peaceful area I headed onto my next destination Kyoto Station.
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Getting there was pretty easy it is a very short walk from the Keihan Fushimi-Inari Station which is also decorated with foxes. The streets were very empty in the early morning. Lucky for me the shrine is opne 24/7 so my early start was no problem. As I walked the few short blocks to the shrine I noted a couple places to visit upon my return.
Though I love foxes that is not the only reason I love Fushimi Inari Taisha. There are literally thousands of beautiful Torii (鳥居)! Torii are a traditional Japanese gate marking a symbolic transition into the sacred world. There are numerous styles made from a variety of materials. The torii at this shrine have mostly been donated by people who have enjoyed great success in business.
The shrine complex is huge and is said to have as many as 32,000 sub-shrines within it!! After walking around for several hours and not seeing close to everything I can believe that figure.
As I was walking around I found that there are numerous cats that live in the shrine. They were very curious and playful. I know I saw at least a dozen different cats and suspect there are many more that live on the Mountain.
I noticed people were mostly in clusters. I could walk 5-10 minutes and not see anyone then run into large groups of people all at once. I had such a blast exploring I almost did not want to go but I still had more places I wanted to visit and I was ready for breakfast. I ate at a small cafe near the station. It was really yummy and it had a very locals kind of atmosphere. The shop workers chatted with the people at the counters quite a bit and they had both Japanese and English menus. I felt very refreshed after my time in the wonderful small cafe.
To see more photo's of Fushimi Inari Taisha please visit my collection here: http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p778718524
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Nishiki Ichiba has an long history which adds to the appeal at least for me. The market can trace its roots back to the year 1310! Coming from a city founded in the late 1800's that is really impressive for me. Nishiki market has a really interesting mix of both locals and tourists all sharing the joy of its culinary delights. This place is known as Kyoto's Kitchen for a reason.
I went extra hungry which was great because there are many free samples to try things out (though I am a picky eater so I passed on several that others would surely enjoy). I walked from one end to the other to scope things out and then walked back again sampling and buying.
There are some stores selling medicine or clothing but most places sell food ranging from produce to pickled goods or fish and meat. You can also find a couple of places to order prepared meals or drinks as well.
The street can get very crowded around the most popular vendors so it can take time to wander around. Taking photo's slowed my personal progress a lot as well so it was nearly closing time before I finished looking at everything. I decided to just bring things back to my hotel room to enjoy. I did not have a microwave or anything so I just bought things I could eat fresh without preparation.
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Kiyomizu-dera is located on Otawa Mountain and was founded in the year 778 making it well over 1200 years old! It is also a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site and the Main Hall is a National Treasure of Japan. One of the most famous features is the huge deck (also known as the stage) in front of the Hondo (Main Hall) which is supported by wooden beams that are roughly 40 feet up from the ground below. The views are sensational!
I walked up through the colorful Deva Gate and wandered around the Bell Tower and past the three storied Pagoda before heading into Kaizan-do hall and the Hondo or Main hall area. It was very very busy this trip. More crowded than any of the previous time I had visited but I kind of enjoyed the different pace from some of the quieter temples and shrines I had been to.
I was asked many times to take group pictures for people. I gladly did it. I wanted to take a good photo for them to keep as a souvenir of their time there. Once I made it to the main deck I had a challenge getting to the edge to see the view. It was a little bit hazy but still beautiful.
It is kind of unusual but there is a Shrine kind of in the middle of this temple. Once you walk past the Deck/Stage and the Main hall it is on your left up some stone stairs. It is called Jishu-jinja and it is a kind of match makers shrine extremely popular with young girls and people seeking their match. This is seriously a fun and lively shrine.
One of the most popular things at Jishu Jinja is the love stones. Two stones are decorated and placed about 20 feet apart, If you can walk between them from one stone to the next with your eyes closed it is said you will find true love. I also understand that you can be assisted in the crossing, but this is means that a go-between will be needed for success in finding love. While I was there I saw several young girls succeed at making the journey between the stones.
In addition to the love stones there are tons of other attractions built within this small shrine various talismans, incense, and omikuji (paper fortunes). It is a wonderful place to people watch.
Headed back down the and going back to Kiyomizu-dera territory I walked passed Okuno-in hall which gives you a wonderful view of the city and of the main deck of Kiyomizudera. After a few photos I walked down the windy trail to the base of the temple complex where Otawa Waterfall is located. This is another highlight of the area. There is often a long line to drink the pure water that comes from the fall. In fact that is what the name Kiyomizudera is Pure water temple. It is said that the water has wish granting abilities. Simply use one of the ladles that have a very long handle and reach out to catch the water from one of the three steams.
I stayed a long time taking pictures and people soaking in the atmosphere but it was time to get back to my hotel. The thought of walking back was not very appealing so I grabbed a taxi and relaxed in comfort giving my tire legs a break after another busy day.
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The streets are home to beautifully restored traditional shops and have a lively atmosphere. A couple more things that I love about this area is that Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka are pedestrian use only and have no overhead power lines which help make it among the most atmospheric places in Kyoto.
It feels almost like you are being transported back in time. There are lots of restaurants and teahouses as well as other goods for sale so it is really a nice area to explore. I took my time here soaking in the atmosphere.
One of my favorite coffee places is located in this area and I built up a bit of thirst so it was time to pop into Inoda Coffee. The store is beautiful and the staff is so friendly. I ordered an iced coffee and some ice-cream as I was hot from lots of walking. I was able to sit near the windows to the beautiful garden that they have. After my coffee break was over I picked up some souvenirs to take back. They have a nice little gift shop near the entrance.
It was now time to head up the stairs to Kiyomizudera. At this time it was extremely crowded as tons of school kids descended on the area in large groups. I held back for a while but it seemed there was no end to the group so I just went along with the flow. Once you reach the top of Sannen-zaka and head left up the Mountain you enter another busy street lined with tons of great shops called kiyomizu-michi and also there is Matsubara-dori both leading to Kiyomizu-dera.
I think half of the fun of going to Kiyomizu-dera is exploring this area of Higshiyama, eating delicious food and soaking in the vibe.
To see more pictures of Nininen-zaka and Sannen-zaka checkout my complete Kyoto set: http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p45570337
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When I arrived the weather was starting to turn. It went from cloudy to light rain to a heavy downpour in a very short period of time. I had my umbrella for the light rain but for the heavy downpour I decided to take at a little cafe set-up near the parking lot at the edge of the temple grounds. I bought a green tea soft serve ice-cream to enjoy while I waited. The rain sounded so great on the tarped roof of the small cafe. A few other people took shelter there as well.
Once the rains calmed to a slow pace I started my walk around Kodai-ji. They had a series of docents pointing the way which was really a first for me. I had never seen so many docents at a temple before. There was a very clear sort of path to follow that took you though the various temple buildings and through the gardens.
The main hall is a reconstruction due to fires apparently but is still very beautiful and feels historic. It leads you out into a beautiful zen rock garden and then around to another larger garden. Within this garden stands the Kaizando (memorial hall) where Nene would pray for Hideyoshi and which now enshrines wooden images of both of them seen below.
After passing the impressive garden and going up a slight hill there are a couple of small tea houses. I wanted to visit them but it suddenly started to pour rain again so I decided to pick up my pace as I walked down the hill through a lovely bamboo grove. While I was there I saw some workers working hard in the rain to prune some of the trees. They seemed very cheerful despite the rain and greeted me as I passed.
For more images of Kodai-ji please visit my Kodai-ji set: http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p885508124
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I felt the atmosphere was mostly joyous. I saw many kids running and playing, people admiring the ponds and flowers and vendors selling snacks. It was incredibly well maintained and was the type of park I would visit often if I lived in Kyoto. There was a lot to see and it was a great place to people watch for sure. But as always I had an aggressive agenda so I did not stay too long as I was headed towards Kodai-ji and Kiyomizudera.
As I was walking towards Kodai-ji I saw a long beautiful stone pathway leading to another temple and could not resist checking it out. I had no idea what the name of the temple was and once inside I did not really see any signs alerting me in English of the name of the place it was only later that I learned it was Otani Sobyo. It actually took a lot of research to find it as there is not a lot of information in English about it and even on Google maps it did not have it's name. This probably explained why I saw no tourists visiting this beautiful Temple.
Otani Sobyo is a Buddhist temple and mausoleum for Jodo Shinshu Otani Sect monks including the famous Monk Shinran (1173-1262) who was the founder of Shin Buddhism.
There was some very beautiful architecture and the mausoleum was incredible. I was very glad I had the opportunity to visit Otani Sobyo. It was very interesting to compare the atmosphere here vs some of the temples and shrines that are heavily trafficked by tourists. This felt like a place of rest which it is as opposed to an attraction.
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or see more images of Kyoto including Maruyama Park and Otani Sobyo in my complete Kyoto set: http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p45570337
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Behind the gate are stone steps leading up to the temple grounds or you can go to the right and visit the garden. I could not resist those lovely stone stairs though so I decided to check out the temple grounds first. Sadly the main hall called Miedo Hall was under repair and was completely hidden from site but there were plenty of smaller buildings to see.
Tahoto (Pagoda) was had a really interesting design and there were several other small buildings that really stood out as well though I was not able to find their specific names. The one pictured below is one of them. Maybe if someone knows they can contact me with it's name I would appreciate it. I loved the small pond in front of it.
I headed to the back of the complex and ended up getting lost and ended up in Maruyama park after some walking so I circled back through the Sanmon gate and this time turned into the garden.
It was still early in the morning maybe about 10:30 am and only a couple people were in the garden at that time. I felt lucky to have such a garden mostly to myself. I was able to really take my time and soak in the beauty of the ponds and trees as well as the amazing Zen rock garden at the lower portion of the garden.
I was glad I paid the garden fee to visit. This was not the largest temple garden I had visited but it was unique and beautiful. The Autumn leaves were just starting to turn. They were setting up some offerings in the center of the garden but I was not able to figure out the occasion and left before anything really got going.
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Southern Higashiyama is full of small tree lined canals which add a really beautiful charm to the area. In the morning there seemed to be mostly locals out walking their small dogs along the streets and also small collection of school kids on their way to early classes. I think most of the tourists were still sound asleep as were the shop keepers and workers.
Kyoto seems like a different world at that time of the day. It is amazing silent. The sound of a few crows was pretty much all you can really hear apart from the occasional car pass. I explored for several hours before hunger started to strike me and I ended up at a McDonald's to have some pancakes and iced coffee. I let time pass as I people watched and waited for the temples to start to open. It was going to be another full day of walking and my feet never really recovered from the previous days of walking. It is interesting the small differences in McDonald's in Japan vs the U.S. though the menu is largely the same there are some unique items only available in Japan but the service is worlds apart. I actually had someone take me to my table collect my tray and trash it felt like eating in a regular restaurant not a fast food place.
After leaving I still had some more time to kill so I walked around more of the town. Shop keepers starting appearing and the pace of life was picking up once again for the day. I killed a little mroe time taking pictures and then headed over to Kodai-ji which is really an amazing temple that does not seem to get as many visitors as some of the other larger temples in Kyoto.
Japan is land of cute and I could not resist taking photo's of cute charachters I saw while walking around.
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I walked down Sanjo-dori and crossed over Sanjo ohashi (Sanjo Bridge). There is a really nice Italian place just a block past the bridge called Pizza Salvatore Coumo & Grill. I stopped in for a Margherita Pizza and also had a fruit mojito as well. The servers were so nice and friendly. They really noticed that I was alone and paid a lot of attention to me and chatted a little when they could. It was pretty busy. There were mostly foreigners eating there from all over the world. It was really very tasty.
Satisfied by a well-earned dinner and drink I walked all over the area. There are lots of small alleys full of interesting things and tons of shops as well. I noted some places that I wanted to revisit when I had more time and enjoyed some of the great art on display as well.
The night atmosphere was very lively. Mostly it was a mix of young people and also other foreigners exploring as well. The mood was very cheerful and energetic. I never felt uncomfortable even for a single moment despite being alone and walking along the river and back alleys in a foreign area. Most people minded their own business though other foreigners often did the customary head nod if we made eye contact which is something not practiced among the locals.
To see more of Kyoto please visit my Kyoto set: http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p45570337
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It was getting late. I had about 1 hour before the gardens at the shrine closed. I took a few shots of the huge gate and the streets as well as a few shots of the interior of the shrine. I had been here once before but again that was really before I was very serious about photography so I did not have much in the way of photo's.
The Heian shrine is actually not as old as most people would expect certainly not when compared to other shrines and temples in Kyoto. It was built in 1895 for the 1100th anniversary of the establishment of Heian-kyo (the old name of Kyoto).
Last time I was here I never made it to the garden so I quickly bought my ticket and headed into the garden area. There was almost nobody around at all. Of course it was pretty late for most people to go to a shrine and or garden. All of the tour buses have stopped for the day.
The first area of the garden had a cool old train car packed in it but apart from that I felt it was nice but nothing special. The paths were calm and the mood was peaceful but there was no color and nothing really caught my eye. I think it may be better in other seasons. I kept moving forward and as I did the garden became more and more beautiful. There was a great tea house about halfway through the garden and an amazing bridge as well. I was able to see some interesting birds and unique plants.
At this point I was pretty much limping along after walking all day. I sat in the covered bridge which crossed the small Heian lake. It was so peaceful and beautiful there. While I took my rest I talked a little with a nice girl visiting from China. It was enjoyable to share stories and pass time in the beautiful garden setting.
On my way out I stopped and shot a few more photos of the shrine and headed back to my hotel to clean up and get ready for dinner and exploring a little of Kyoto at night.
To see more photo's of the Heian Shrine and the Garden please visit either of these two sets
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or
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Tenryuji "Heavenly Dragon Temple" is the most important and well known temple in the Arashiyama area. It is famous for it's Autumn scenary and is also a UNESCO World Heritage site as well. Sadly I arrived before the leaved really changed but I was still able to enjoy at least some Autumn color.
The Zen garden dates back to the 14th century. The garden is called Sogenchi-teien. And in the center of the garden is the very beautiful Sogen pond. The scenery incorporates two Mountains as part of the landscape viewing (Kame-yama & Arashi-yama). The art of adding outside elements as part of the composition of the garden is called shakkei. At least that is how I understood it.
There were lots of couples enjoying the garden scenary together and quite a few dressed in traditional clothes. It's interesting there were very few children. It was mostly couples visiting the gardens.
I felt really peaceful and relaxed. The layout and beauty of the garden removed the weary feeling I had from a full day of walking around Arashiyama.
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I stopped in and enjoyed a nice iced coffee and bough a few small souvenirs. I was able to sit at the counter and enjoyed listening to the shop workers talking with some of the regular customers. They really seemed to have an enjoyable conversation. Before leaving I got a soft-serve ice-cream to go. There is a nice park (Arashiyamahigashi Park) that sits along the river. I sat on a bench and enjoyed the site of some egrets fishing in the water and also took in the view of the famous Togetsukyo Bridge ( 渡月橋) or "Moon Crossing Bridge"
The pulse of Arashiyama seemed so relaxed. Even though there was so much to see and do in the area there is a sort of calm that you don't often feel. To me it reminded me a lot of Miyajima in that sense.
The Bamboo groves were next on my list. Though I quickly walked around them in the morning waiting for the Monkey Park to open they were much more beautiful with the late morning light coming though the high clouds. There were very few people which really surprised me. I took my time and enjoyed the sights and smells of the bamboo grove. It was smaller than I expected but a very special place none the less.
After my walk around the area I decided it was time for some lunch. I read about a place called Sagano-yu cafe and made my way over. It was not a long walk from the bamboo groves and there were some interesting shops along the way to look at. Sagano-yu is a former bath house converted into a cafe. Once inside I was greeted by such a friendly staff. It was so bright and clean inside it really refreshed and energized me after my walk. I ordered a latte and fruit hot cakes which were really in vogue around Japan at the time.
After lunch I walked around a little more exploring the area before heading to Tenryuji temple.
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Of course being an early bird I arrived way before the Monkey park opened so I decided to walk around and explore.Arashiyama is simply beautiful. The area is so clean and well maintained. You can feel the pride of the residents and shop keepers. It was too early to visit anything really so I headed for the famous Sagano Bamboo groves (I will talk about these more next week). While exploring the bamboo groves I found a very small shrine called Nonomiya-jinja. While there I met a really nice guy. He spoke English really well and told me he visited the shrine every morning on his way to work. We talked for about 10 minutes about various things. It was nice to have an interesting conversation to start out the day.
I walked across the famous Togetsukyō Bridge which goes over the Hozu River and Katsura River (I will talk about this more later). While on my walk I noticed a group of cats sun bathing on a metal roof near the river. I walked a little closer to take their photo. Inside the building was a man who watched me taking pictures and came out to see what was going on. I thought maybe he would chase me away but once he saw what I was taking photo's he smiled and laughed a little. He also stood and admired the scene.
It was at last time for Iwatayama Monkey Park to open. Arashiyama is very small and walkable so I walked on over to the admission area. I am pretty sure I was the first customer of the day.
You pay the admission at the bottom of the hill and then walk along a path through a beautiful wooded area. I never saw a single person while walking early that morning. It was so peaceful. I could hear some birds and insects in the distance. The path was not steep but is was long. I walked about 20 minutes wondering where are the Monkeys? Will I see any? I looked in the trees, on the ground ahead of me behind me and nothing. I noticed a Coca Cola bench and thought maybe I would sit for a little but that plan was called off when I saw a Monkey sitting alone just ahead. I slowly walked closer not wanting to scare it. I took a photo and walked a few steps, then took another photo and walked a few steps. The monkey did not seem to notice nor care about my approach. Soon I was just a few feet away. It was a magnificent experience to be so close to this wild animal. After visiting a while I felt energized and continued up the mountain.
It was not very long before I met 2 more monkeys on the path. They were busy grooming each other. They also did not notice me. I was a bit afraid to pass them as there was very little room to get around them on the trail but at the last moment as I got very close they slowly got up and walked up the hill.
Around the next turn is where thing really picked. I had reached the feeding paddock. Before me was dozens of Monkeys sitting, playing, climbing, and sleeping. I took a ton of photo's before heading into the building to buy some snacks for both myself and to feed them. To be honest when I saw the feeding place I was surprised. Photo's had not done it justice You can get a great view from the feeding area and the shop workers were so nice. It was a perfect place to get a little rest after a long walk.
After a drink of water I got some peanuts to hand to them through the window. I was suddenly popular. Monkeys appeared from all over looking for a handout. There were several tiny babies that already were amazing climbers. Once the peanuts were gone I headed out and walked down the other side of the mountain taking pictures of dozens more Monkey's.
This really turned out to be a great adventure. I saw more people finally start to arrive as I headed down the mountain and it was time to explore more of what Arashiyama had to offer.
To see more pictures of the Monkey Park and Arashiyama visit my Arashiyama Sets
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I went to Nijo Castle (Nijo-Jo) several years ago and loved it. I felt like I had spent a hald day there that first time admiring the gardens and taking the tour it is a really interesting place. My first visit to Nijo-jo was before my passion for photography for really reignited though so I was eager to revisit this splendid complex in the heart of Kyoto.
I managed to get to the gate before a couple big tour buses pulled in and unleashed throngs of people. I decided to skip ahead a little and quickly paid my admission fee and entered the gardens to shoot in relative peace. Ninomaru Garden was my first visit within the castle walls. This is really a traditional Japanese garden. There were no flowers in bloom within the garden but the landscape and ponds were incredibly beautiful. This really differs from Western gardens where there tends to be a lot of emphasis on having flowers in bloom year round.
I walked all around Honmaru Palace, Seiryū-en garden, crossed bridges over the inner moat, and took in the views from the walls protecting the castle. The castle was exactly as I had remembered it. I felt like I was just there as the layout was burned into my mind from my previous visit.
One of my favorite parts of the castle is the beautiful Karamon Gate that leads to the Ninomaru Palace. The details are simply amazing. I spent about 2 hours walking around the Castle and it's gardens and I am sure there is plenty of the complex that I missed but I felt satisfied with my revisit to the UNESCO World Heritage site.
I headed back on foot to my Hotel. It was a long walk but I wanted to enjoy walking around Kyoto a little with no particular schedule or rush to do anything. The leisure time felt great and the weather was perfect. It also gave me a lot of time to explore the Sanjo-dori street area near my hotel. I would ened up visiting that area everyday I was in Kyoto.
I had read good reviews about a coffee place just 2 blocks from my Hotel called Ogawa Coffee. It was a really high end looking place and the crafting that went into things was wonderful. I really took my time there and soaked in the atmosphere I also bought a little bear cookie that was almost too cute to eat but was really delicious.
After a little dinner I turned in early for a busy 2nd day in Kyoto.
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I did not buy Shinkansen tickets in advance and just took the first available Nozomi Shinkansen which is the fastest train from Tokyo to Kyoto at around 2 hours. I was able to get one of the very last seats a few people had to stand so this was pretty lucky for me. I was a little disappointed the person next to the window closed the shade so I could not look out and see Mount Fuji but the ride itself was fantastic. I had ridden a couple times before but still I felt the same excitement of being on this speedy train. It was so smooth it is hard to tell the difference from being on an airplane though the view is better from the train.
Like magic I arrived in Kyoto. Kyoto station is amazing. It is also huge!! I got a little lost inside. It took me a while to find the taxi area but once I did I was on my way to to Hana Hotel.
Hotel Hana is a pretty small place but it is located next to the subway station and near Kamogawa (Duck River) and walking distance to much of wanted I wanted to see. The staff was so friendly and spoke English really well. They also gave me a care package of some Bath Salts and things for my stay. I was checked into my room in no time at all. The room itself was very comfortable, it was not large nor was it small. I felt the room was really laid out thoughtfully and had a lot of conveniences built into it that many of the larger chain hotels miss. There was no view from my room at all but that was okay for this stay.
Of course me being me I put my stuff down, took some photo's and was off. Next up Nijo-jo!
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Before my journey to Kyoto though I wanted to explore Asakusa a little more and to say goodbye to this charming area of Tokyo. I left my tiny but welcoming room at the Chiisun Inn and went out for a morning exploration before checking out. I walked around my hotel and along the River for around an hour or so.
The weather was simply perfect. It was probably the best day yet. The sunrise over the Sumida river really felt so nice and comforting. I was really feeling so comfortable in my home away from home and decided to cross the River to explore Sumida a little. Sumida is Home to Tokyo Sky Tree and the Asahi Beer factory among many other things.
I spent a good hour walking around the streets of Sumida with no real goal in mind other than getting a better view of Tokyo Sky Tree and seeing the town. It was early in the morning so very few people were out and there was no traffic either. I felt the city really took great pride in being home to Tokyo Sky Tree. I saw many flyers and signs around the streets.
I regret not having time to go to the viewing area of the Tokyo Sky Tree but I knew I would be going to Tokyo Tower when I returned to Tokyo and I have a special place in my heart for the more nostalgic Tokyo Tower.
After arriving at the base of Tokyo sky tree I decided to work my way back to Asakusa. I decided to go down a different series of streets and feeling confident in my sense of direction and with my growing knowledge of landmarks navigated my way towards my Hotel.
Along the way I came across a local shrine that I could not pass up without exploring in greater detail. A few people came to offer prayers before heading out to work and school while I was taking photos. After leaving I saw a beautiful pond and also saw the Asahi Beer Factory so I knew I was close to my Hotel. I took some time to explore the park. There were a few homeless people sitting on some park benches and one man came to join me in taking photos but the park was largely silent. I could see the freeway was starting to back-up now.
It was now time to get back to my Hotel and check out. I walked past the Asahi Beer Factory over the Sumida River one last time towards my Hotel. Next up it was time to take the Shinkansen to Kyoto.
The statue weighs about 267,000 pounds and is 43.8 feet tall made out of bronze. The statue is believed to be over 760 years old though it has been repaired a few times over its life.
While I was there a nice girl offered to take my photo which I gladly accepted her kind offer as a souvenir from my trip here. The grounds were very nice but apart from the statue there was not a lot of other things to see at kotoku-in and time was getting late so I decided to walk to Hasedera just a short walk away. There were a few interesting shops along the way.
Sadly during my walk the rain started again but this would not slow me down/ I heard amazing things about Hasedera and after I arrived, I immediately felt all the wonderful things were well deserved. There is a beautiful pond and garden at the entrance which felt so refreshing to my eyes and walking along the paths I was wowed by the countless Jizo statuettes located in various places around the temple grounds.
Having arrived in November I missed the beautiful hydrangea flowers which the temple is largely renowned for but as I hiked up the mountain I was able to enjoy a beautiful view of the town and the sea. The rains and cold were wearing on me as was the full day of hiking around Kamakura so after enjoying the view a little it was time to head back to my Hotel and get ready for my trip to Kyoto the next day.
The train ride home was crowded but smooth. I stopped off for a little dinner in Asakusa and then return to the comfort of my hotel to dry out and rest.
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I entered from a side entrance and was surprised to see so many kids dressed in traditional clothes and some adults as well. I had not realized that I was vising during "Shichi-go-san" (seven-five-three) which is a sort of rite of passage day in Japan for boys aged 3 & 5 and girls aged 3 & 7. It is hoped that the ritual will drive away evil spirits and grant a long life to the children. The kids dress in Kimono's and visit shrines. The children will likely receive a chitose ame (thousand year candy) as a gift.
Because I entered kind of backwards I first approached the main hall which was very lively. After entering the main hall and offering my prayers I exited bought a few souvenirs and then soaked in the amazing view of the city. The shrine is built on the foot of a mountain at the center of the city. The weather was still cloudy but I can imagine on a clear day it must be breathtaking.
After enjoying the view a while I descended the long set of 61 stone stairs and as soon as I reached the bottom of the stairway I noticed that there was a traditional Japanese wedding ceremony being held at the "Maiden" or ritual dance stage. Everyone was really well dressed and their presence even further enhanced the festive and auspicious mood.
I was really enjoying the atmosphere and explored the ponds and sub shrines but it was time to have lunch and I was ready for a walk after walking around 4 different temples and a shrine that morning. I headed out under the giant orange tori standing at the entrance and gave a final look-back at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu.
I walked a little down Wakamiya Oji Avenue and noticed a little pizza place called "Pizza dada" where I enjoyed the great atmosphere and really authentic and delicious margherita pizza. I asked the very kind and lovely waitress for directions to the shop that sells the famous Kamakura treat "hato sabure" (dove cookies) which are butter cookies in the shape of a dove.
The shop was located at the end of the very popular shopping street which I enjoyed walking along. I did not end up buying anything but I was extremely tempted by several shops. I was too full to eat my dove cookies then but luckily they came in a nice box so I was able to get them to my hotel safely.
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After paying my fee and walking towards the sanmon (main gate) I was greeted by the sound of music. A performer was playing to a small group of people. I enjoyed his playing for a little while. It was a really nice warm way to be greeted. As I passed through the gate I noted dozens of photos from the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami. It was a powerful reminder of the damage caused by that terrible combination of events.
I was in awe at the size of the temple complex. I was quickly beginning to understand why it was ranked number 1 among the 5 great Zzen temples. The weather brought out tons of people suddenly but they seemed to mainly stay near the main hall which was very impressive for sure. After offering a quick prayer I moved to a less busy area of the sprawling complex.
I small group of elementary school kids approached me and inquired if they could ask me some questions. They said they were visiting from Gunma and working on their English studies. We talked for about 15 minutes. They asked about where I was from, my hobbies, how I liked Japan and many other topics. I was impressed with how good their English was. They took my photo for their report and I took one of them in return. They were really cool kids.
After our chat I walked around the temple complex. It had many amazing features. I was impressed by the beautiful gold decorated gate, statues and gardens. You could easily spend a half day walking around and not see everything here but due to my limited time I headed off to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu which is Kamakura's most important shrine.
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There were some interesting things here. One of my favorite discoveries was the large statue of Hotei, the god of happiness which was inside a natural cave and also a trio of unique Tanuki statues. Tanuki is a Japanese Raccoon Dog who are thought to be mischievous and cheerful. Tanuki are also thought to be shapeshifters who can change their form at will. The statues are commonly found in many gardens and shops all over Japan.
I was now getting thirsty and really wanting to get some place dry for a little bit so I left Jochiji and headed for my next destination hoping to find something along the way. I headed off towards Kenchoji. The street connecting all these major temples is actually pretty narrow and so is the sidewalk. There were no konbini stores or chain stores but a variety of small shops were stretched out along the roadway.
Finally I stopped in a small shop offering local cider and the famous Kamakura sweet potato soft serve ice cream (murasaki-imo sofuto). It was almost noon now and the rain had stopped. Inside the store was a few seats so I grabbed one and rested for a bit. I could understand why the sweet potato ice cream was so widely promoted. It was outstanding and so was the cider. I bought a second cider to take back to my hotel.
To see more of my Kamakura adventure or to purchse prints please visit here http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p1033001107
To be continued...
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I got off to a early start as usual. I was impressed with how easy it is to use the train system in Japan. If you look at the maps of the all the different colored lines and read about the transfers is looks very intemidating but really once you do it a couple of times it is a peace of cake. It took roughly an hour to get from my hotel to the kita-Kamakura station.
Sadly the day started off with rain, wind and cold. Luckily my first destination was extremely close to the kita-kamakura station about a 2 minute walk lead me to Engakuji one of Kamakura's 5 great zen temples. It is said to be ranked #2 among them. I am not sure who ranked them and how they are ranked though.
I was a bit early and the gate had not opened yet so I visited with the temple cat that came to greet me and the couple other visitors waiting out front under cover of umbrellas. Once the gates opened I quickly paid my fee and started exploring. The structures were all very impressive. The Sanmon (main gate) was huge and gave me a change to get a little shelter while the rain picked up. in The main hall they had really amazing golden statues and an incredible painting of a dragon located on the ceiling. I had seen it before but it was even more impressive in person.
Not many people were walking around at such an early hour on a rainy day. The sound of the rain and chirps of a few birds was the only noise I heard for the hour I spent walking around the massive temple complex. It really was a very peaceful experience. I headed further into the complex and up a hill. The area was full of trees and plants but also giant spiders so if spiders make you nervous don't look up here because they were all over the place up in the trees. I found some really cool wooden carvings that helped take my mind off the creepy spiders for a moment or two.
On my way out I saw the sign to visit a national treasure located at Engakuji which is "ogane" the temple's large bell. It was a steep hike up a set of stairs that were pretty slippery in the rain but once up at the top I was treated to a beautiful view and found a plce to dry off a little and have some tea. The bell was very impressive. I can't imagine the back breaking labor of getting it up that steep hill.
My next stop was also close by as well. It was Tokeiji, a much smaller temple complex than Engakuji. The temple had an interesting history apparently it served as a shelter for women who suffered abuse by their husbands and wanted to get a divorce. If they stayed at the temple 3 years a divorce would become official. This is just on the other side of the Kita-Kamakura station but I turned right instead of left at first and had to double back but it gave me a chance to see the cool little area past the station full of funky coffee shops and stores plus some houses as well.
Tokeiji had a very large cemetery and beautiful green garden. There were a few people but not many. I felt the rain really was keeping most people away. I was soaked from head to foot at this point even with my umbrella due to the increasing wind. This kept me from spending too much time there.
Next up was Jochiji. I was really becoming miserable due to being soaked and cold at this point so I cut this short as well whic was a shame because it was also a lovely place and number 4 on that list of 5 great temples in Kamakura. I will talk about this more next week though
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I had very good timing for my arrival. On Sundays, Chuo Dori which is the main street in Akihabara, is closed to car traffic from 1:00 PM to 6:00 PM. It had an almost festival sort of feel with music playing and tons of people walking randomly through the street.
I had read a lot of various guides and websites describing the area but to me nothing really captured who walkable the area was. The sites made it seem much larger and more confusing than the area really was. It is actually really easy to navigate. The later in the evening it got the more lively the area became.
I could hear the sounds of AKB48 (Japanese JPOP music group) playing at nearly every single shop I entered. AKB48 originated from there so it certainly makes sense and also they had just released a popular new single too.
Otaku is the Japanese word for Nerd or Geek and this is land of the Otaku for sure so I felt very at home. Endless amounts of electronic gadgets, toys, video games, models, music, anime and manga and very cute girls dressed up as maids promoting the many maid cafes located in the area. What is not to love?
Yodabashi Camera is just huge. I am convinced if it is electronic and in current production it can be found there. I have been to the one in Osaka and Kyoto also and I am always in awe when I walk around the store. I picked up an extra memory card because of course you can't have too many of those while travelling in Japan.
After Yodabashi, I had to visit Don Quijote AKA Don-ki which carries a little bit of everything from clothes and groceries to music, toys, costumes and electronic goods. On the top floor they have a place where the Jr members of AKB48 play daily. Sadly I was not able to get a ticket at the time but I enjoyed looking around a lot.
I hit several other popular stores in the area (Sofmap, Laox, Akky etc.) and decided to get something to eat. Being a foreigner some of the people handing out fliers kind of ignore you because they assume you do not speak Japanese and you are not their target demographic which was pretty much spot on in my case. That being said one of the girls promoting a local maid cafe who was dressed as appraoched me and gave me a flyer with her name and number and showed me to a local maid cafe. It was a wonderful experience. Sorry no Photos allowed but my maid was extraordinary. She was so cheerful and the Latte and om-rice were excellent. They draw a little face in ketchup on it for you.
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After being pampered and having had a busy day it was time to head back to my room and get ready for another big day the next day going to Kamakura for the first time.
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I walked around looking for a good place to enjoy the parade. The streets were quickly filling up and at last I decided to sit across from Senso-ji. One of the nice extra touches they did was they had massive roles of white plastic and unrolled them on the streets so people could sit on the street without getting dirty. It was such a great idea.
The parade moved really well. There were not a lot of long pauses in the action as you experience at some parades things kept a pretty even flow for the most part.
The dragon was so amazing. Behind me a mother and her son were watching the parade. The son was a little upset by the dragon as it moved down the street. The dragon would occasionally stop and bow down to a person and gently touch them on the head to bring them good luck. The dragon came right in front of me and the child started crying. The dragon then gently touched the kids head and he bawled for about 10 minutes. I felt bad for him. He must have been so scared but his mom just kind of ignored him and he eventually calmed down.
The parade had costumes from various periods in Japans history. All of the costumes were so amazing. I also greatly enjoyed the numerous performances too. There were a couple of sword fights that were thrilling to whatch. The group that dressed as Shinsengumi was very memorable.
The man who climbed the huge ladder performed really amazing acrobatic moves that made me a bit nervous just seeing how high above the crowed he was without any sort of safety net to protect him should he fall. I would have to say that the Tokyo Jidai Matsuri was the liveliest parade that I have personally attended.
To see a ton more photos of the Tokyo Jidai Matsuri held in Asakusa please check my set by clicking on this link. http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p190759399
Next up the land of the geek/otaku/nerd Akihabara
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I personally love the energy of Nakamise-dori. I bought several souvenirs there during my stay. They have some really good deals and a huge variety of things but again if you hate crowds this is certainly not a place you would like to linger.
Sensoji is busy on a normal day so on the day of a festival it is extremely busy. There were booths set-up selling food, paper lanterns to enjoy at night and beautiful flowers on display. This was all in addition to the normal variety of things to see and do.
After offering prayers and making a small donation I heard the sounds of the procession for Shirasagi-no-mai (White Heron Dance) and as I turned I witnessed the beautiful dancers with their amazing costumes walking towards the makeshift dance area. With all the people I feared I would have a difficult time seeing the performance as it was kind of chaotic.
Luck was on my side. I was able to get very close to the action. The crowed really ranged in age from young children to elderly. I saw a few foreigners but not many.
The performance was simply amazing. I felt the dancers really captured the true movements and essence of the graceful heron. It was extremely elegant and well done. This performance was truly a highlight to my entire trip.
To see my set dedicated to Shirasagi-no mai please click here http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p255795894
It was now time to get ready for the parade. I headed out to the main street and got ready for Tokyo Jidai Matsuri. I will go into details on this next week.
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After grabbing some fruit and canned coffee I was off on my exploration journey. Please note the Lawson 100 yen store featured above was not my regular konbini just one I saw on the way. I mostly shopped at a local family mart a couple doors down from my hotel but Lawson's is fantastic too.
It was Sunday and the town was very quite. This made me really feel like a local as I walked the neighborhood near my hotel and slowly expanded outward eventually reaching Kappabashi Dougu or Kappabashi Street. Kappabasi street is also known as "Kitchen town" as it is the premier destination for all things kitchen in Japan. Only about 30% of the shops are open on Sunday so it was a bad day for me to visit but I enjoyed looking around at the store windows and had no plans to buy any kitchen items anyway.
In Kappabashi I found a fun statue and the legend of Kappa. It is said the mythical Kappa (river boy) is a "Yokai" a kind of spirit of sorts. Kappa were kind of tricksters and River Spirits and apparently the local shop keepers adopted it as the mascot for the area. A golden statue of a Kappa really stood out.
The streets around Kappabashi towards Ueno were very interesting. I loved the atmosphere. I found countless things of interest ranging from statues to cool architecture and unique shops. I really felt this would be an area I would enjoy living in if I lived in Tokyo.
I stopped in a small restaurant for breakfast before checking the time and deciding to get back to Sensoji for today's main event which was "Shirasagi-no-mai" (White Heron Dance) and the Tokyo Jidai Matsuri (Tokyo Jidai Festival and Parade). Actually I timed my entire trip to Japan so that I could check this event out.
Stay tuned for Sensoji and Shirasagi-no-mai next week. To see more of Asakusa and Kappabashi street please check my set http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p678304499
]]>After my visit to Sengakuji I hoped on the Asakusa line and then transferred to the Yurikamome at Shimbashi Station. It was crowded but a relatively short trip to Odaiba from the Shimbashi station. I was surprised how big the island was. This is the one time I felt the maps undersold the scope of the island.
It was lunchtime and I was ready to grab a bite and had plenty of time before the event was scheduled to start. There were several options near Daiba station and many other choices in Aqua City and Venus Fort two of the very large shopping malls nearby. After lunch it was time to visit the life size Gundam statue in front of Diver City. As a geek I could not pass this up. The status was really impressive and as I expected there were tons of people admiring it. After a few shots I decided to explore the area a little more.
Odaiba is the only place in Tokyo that has beach access. I walked along the beach trails on that overcast Saturday. There were very few people along the waters edge. I saw some kids skipping stones and a couple digging for clams but apart from that is was largely devoid of people unlike the area near the Gundam statue. I can imagine though that in Summer this must be a really popular place.
You can enjoy some really beautiful views of Tokyo from Odaiba including the Bay, the famous Rainbow Bridge, Tokyo Tower and much more. Sadly as they day was getting later it was getting even more grey and started to sprinkle off and on. Luckily I have learned my lesson over the years visiting Japan and had a small umbrella just in case.
It was time for Yosakoi at last or so I thought. There was a large stage area set-up and a panel of about 15 or so speakers. Each took turns speaking but as my Japanese is probably less than your average preschooler I only understood that in general they were very excited about going to New York Times Square to perform Yosakoi and were very excited about the announcement that Japan will host the Olympics in the future. By the time the Dancers were ready to start dancing it was nearly dark and starting to rain. Most people soon scattered. I stayed for as long as I could but even with my umbrella was getting wet.
I really admired the dancers. Even getting soaked in the rain wearing their beautiful and colorful costumes they really danced their hearts out. The music was so energetic I wished I could get a sample of it.
To escape the rain I circled back to Aqua city and decided to get dinner and dry off a little. There were so many shops mostly all high end clothing and it was really crowded but I enjoyed the lively atmosphere. Next I decided to check out the Fuji TV building. It is a very uniquely designed building and has a cool looking observation deck but with the clouds and rain it was bad timing so I just hit the gift shop and moved on to the statue of Liberty... yes, the statue of liberty only smaller but still awesome.
It was getting late and it was time to head back to my temporary home in Asakusa. I could easily have gone back by train but I decided to take a water taxi so I headed to the pier. I made a great choice. I booked a trip on the "HOTLUNA" water taxi. It was beautiful and colorful inside and the windows offered beautiful views as we traversed the bay and down the Sumida River. Tokyo has so many colorful and unique bridges and the city lights were beautiful as we headed back. The boat ride was very smooth and I was able to order up a delicious hot chocolate on board.
The boat docked near the heart of Asakusa and re-energized I walked around Aakusa a little in the rain before turning in. This ended my first full day in back in Tokyo.
To see more of Odaiba or to buy some prints please click here http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p390360504
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to see more of the dream yosakoi or to purchase photos of the event click here http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p998950762
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Sengaku-ji is a short walk from Sengaku-ji station (as long as you choose the correct exit). You go up a small hill and it basically ends directly at the temple. For some reason on maps it looks much harder to get to than it is. I notived this with a lot of things in Japan. It is important to note that Tokyo is huge but sometimes things are much closer together than they appear on the map.
I chose this day to visit Sengakuji as it is located between Asakusa and Odaiba which was my primary destination for the day. It is all just a short ride along the Toei Asakusa line.
I arrived around 11:00 am on an overcast morning. There was a scattering of people walking around the temple grounds when I arrived all of whom appeared to be there alone with the exception of a small family which added to the solemn feel of the temple and graveyard. I had somehow expected more activity but it never really developed. I had a feeling that although they offer an English Pamphlet they do not really get many foreigners visiting the temple. At the entrance is a very impressive statue of Oishi Kuranosuke, the leader of the 47 ronin (pictured at the top of this blog entry).
Several of the buildings appeared newer inside the courtyard. As I headed up to the left I entered a small but ancient cemetery. The graves of the 47 Ronin were very easy to find all located in the same small area. There was incense burning at each of the grave markers a sign that someone had recently paid respects. There were several photographers taking pictures and a few people came to offer prayers. I felt everyone was being very respectful in a way you don't often see these days. It was a very interesting experience.
Apart from the cemetery there was not much to the Temple itself from what I saw so I did not linger very long. I decided to continue up the hill a little and see more of the area as I headed back to Sengakuji station. There are some impressive buildings in the area and it is kind of a mixed use area residential and commercial. I enjoyed the walk but it was time to go to Odaiba so I quickly made it back to the station after about 15 minutes of walking around the area.
To see more of Sengakuji please visit my set of photos from the Minato area of Tokyo - http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p899850998
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Stop number one was a beautiful local park. The park was very narrow but lengthy. This was the start of autumn and the leaves were just beginning to change color. This is the kind of park I would visit often if I lived in the area. It was extremely peaceful and offered a great view of the Tokyo Sky tree as well.
After being side tracked by the lovely park I got on my way again only to be distracted once again by the site of another temple entrance. It was still early in the morning so time was not really a concern I decided to explore further.
Honryuin also known as Matsuchiyamashoden temple does not appear on many tourists maps or guides at least not in English and that is a true shame. I loved this quite temple. The temple enshrines Bishamonten (one of the Seven Lucky Gods).
As you walk around you will notice both Daikon (Japanese radish) and Kinchaku (Cutpurse) are themed throughout the temple complex on lanterns, tiles, pottery and more. They also sell fresh Daikon to present as an offering at the shrine. I saw several women doing this during my visit.
The Daikon represents health and family harmony and the purses are to bring about financial success. My quick stop lasted about a half hour as I soaked in the atmosphere.
To see more photo's from Asakusa please visit my set: http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p678304499
After my visit to Matsuchiyamashoden it was time for soem French Toast and Coffee at Excelsior Cafe located just across from Asakusa Station. I had a wonderful view from the 3rd floor of the cafe.
After this my next stop was one that was of particular interest to me as a fan of History, it was the final resting site of the 47 Ronin. If you are not familiar with the 47 Ronin I highly recommend you read about them. It is a very famous and interesting real life story of Japans History and is a tale of Honor and Revenge. The site is just a few stations away from Asakusa in Sengakuji.
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After walking some side streets and getting to know the area a little better during daylight I decided to head down to the river again. I grew up near water and always feel most comfortable in an area with a river or ocean access.
Near the heart of Asakusa is the heavily travelled Azumabashi (Azuma bridge). I could not resist the beckoning cat at the entrance which would become the theme of the morning. As it was too early to grab a bite to eat I picked up a nice warm coffee from a vending machine near my hotel and drank it along the river.
Asakusa is very peaceful in the morning. The tourists show up around 10:00 am in droves. Taking advantage of the quite time I walked along the Sumida River again. I enjoyed the sounds of the birds and an occasional train. There were a few locals jogging or walking their dogs and the occasional feral cat which the park had many of.
I had read of a small shrine in Asakusa called Imado-jinja. The shrine is one of two shrines in Tokyo that claim to be the birthplace of the famous Maneki-Neko statues that are common around the world these days also known as the “Beckoning Cat”
I arrived at Imado-jinja before the shrine opened but greatly enjoyed the atmosphere. This is a relatively small shrine but surrounded by so many charming cat statues I found myself smiling during my entire time there. A few locals stopped to pray on their way to work or school but mostly I was alone there.
Oddly I found one dog statue at the shrine. I wonder how it felt about living among all the cat statues…
To see more pictures of Asakusa or to order prints please visit my set http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p678304499
Day 2 will be continued…
]]>I thought I would take the opportunity to change things up a little now that I am back. Today I would like to do a little travel blogging about my most recent trip to Japan.
For the first leg of my trip I decided to stay in Asakusa which is located in the Taito district of Tokyo. Asakusa is a very old part of Tokyo and for centuries was known as the entertainment district of Tokyo. Asakusa is a major tourist destination and on the top of most people's list is Sensoji. Sensoji's history dates all the way back to the 7th century. It is easy to feel the rich history and tradition while exploring the rather large temple area.
After my flight arrived in Narita I took a bus to Tokyo station and the caught a taxi to check in at my Hotel in Asakusa. One thing about Japan is service is always King even with my lack of Japanese language skills the process went very smoothly.
I am not one to sit in a Hotel room for long so I dropped my bags off and grabbed my camera ready to explore my temporary home for the next 5 days. Being a tourist area Asakusa if full of places to dine and things to see and do even late into the evening.
My first stop was Sensoji. This was my second visit to the great and colorful temple and I was no less impressed this time than my first time. I found it even more beautiful at night than in the day.
After exploring the temple and area I made way along the Sumida River which is a short 5 minute walk from Sensoji. Sumida River offers beautiful views of several great Tokyo landmarks including the Asahi Beer Factory and Tokyo Sky tree. A wonderful park runs along both sides of the River and is very popular among locals and tourists alike. I will add more about Sumida River in my Day 2 update coming soon.
After exploring some side streets and buying some snacks I called it a day. I wanted to get a good night sleep in anticipation for a busy Day 2. To see a lot more of Asakusa check out my Asakusa photo collection http://kfrates.zenfolio.com/p678304499
]]>I think this is a fantastic quote and a great way to explain the art of photography in a simple way. There are so many ways to look at the same thing if you really look closely and utilizing the tools available to you we have an opportunity to share our vision of them.
I think it is a great exercise to pick one of your favorite subjects and try shooting it in different lights or times of day. Experimentation is important to growth and further enhancing your artistic vision. If you can turn the ordinary into the extraordinary you have become a fantastic photographer.
"Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst." - Henri Cartier-Bresson, Photographer
Looking at this quote it seems Mr Cartier-Bresson is saying that experience counts for a lot in Photography and with this I have to agree completly. Even photographs you really thought were great when you took them early on may be looked at years later with a more seasoned and critical eye and we may find they were not so great at all. I feel it is valuable to try looking at your photographs from a detached and objective point of view. Do you feel your works have impoved over the years or are you still at the same level? Do you think differently when getting ready to take a photograph now compared to when you first started? I think it is also important to factor in the number 10,000 used in the quote. This number was mentioned in a time and career based on the use of film and should be thought of more in many years of practice not just the number of times you push the shutter. Now in the age of DSLR's that shoot 4-6 frames per second we have people who freely shoot 10,000 photo's in a week.
Photo above: Taken by me in Kobe, Japan on New Years.
A little about Henri Cartier-Bresson (August 22, 1908 – August 3, 2004). He was a famous French Photographer known as one of the true pioneers of candid street photography/photo journalism.
What I find really interesting about him was that he had little interest in the technical aspects of photography apart from what he needed to know in order to capture the image he wanted. He did not develope his own photographs and tried to compose everything in the viewfinder. He did not care about the latest greatest camera equipment and shot with an old Leica Rangefinger wrappen in black tape to make it more discreet. Many of us fall into the trap of wanting the newest gear and worry about a half an extra frame per second or an extra f/stop.
I encourage you to check out his amazing works.
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Above Photo taken in the San Francisco, CA Mission District
Photo Clubs: There are photo clubs all over and a simple internet search can find many of them. I also found chatting with other photographers can turn you onto some of them as well. Photo clubs are all different so I have found that asking to sit in on one before joining is the best way to go about it. Some photo clubs tend to be more of a social gathering for photographers to chat and share while others are more instructive and yet others tend to be more dedicated to competitions with awards and judging. It is important to find which works best for you and what you want to get out of the experience before handing over your membership fee's and joining. A good resource I have found for finding groups is meetup.com
The online world: Flickr is by far my favorite venue for sharing photo's online. The site is a great palce to post photo's and the relationship with Getty images further enhanced that for those interested in selling images. It is easy to comment and share photo's and a great way to meet photographers from around the world who share a common interest. I am always inspired after visiting my many contacts there. Face Book has also become popular among many photographers though it is not as user friendly as Flickr is in my opinion for sharing and commenting on Photo's.
Showing prints: Many local coffee shops and galleries love to show off local artists works and are a great opportunity to show your stuff. This can involve a bit of upfront cost to you as you would need to print and frame the photo's but if you are looking at selling or just demonstrating your works this is a great way to get noticed. I would suggest checking with your chamber of commerce or tourism offices to see if they have a list or ideas of places that seek out new artists to display most of them are more than happy to help. Many towns also have an Arts Association that would be a great resource for this. Often if you join the arts association in your community they host special member exhibitions.
Above Photo toaken at "Local Color" in Seattle, WA
Online Portfolio's: Having a dedicated online portfolio is a very good idea for several reasons. First it is a great place to show your work in a controlled environment where you can choose the look and feel of the website. Second it serves as a great back-up to protect your photo's from fire, theft or other problem with your PC at home.
Printing your own Books: Blurb, Shutterfly, Costco... many places will provide you with options to create your own books to share. My favorite is Blurb as it allows you to download the software so you can work on it when you want and offers great flexibility and quality. Blurb also allows you to sell them via it's website should you choose to do so. I make several books per year now and no longer deal with bulky photo albums that take up so mauch space.
Do you have some other good tips or resorces for sharing Photo's? I would love to hear them please feel free to e-mail me.
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Above: Trash Can in Astoria, OR
Being a photographer I am well aware that I often look like a tourist even in my home city so why not just go with the flow? The advantages to being seen as a tourist are pretty good. One major advantage is that people tend to forgive you more for including them in your photo. People often just assume you are some random person on a tourist vacation shooting for their travel album if you present yourself as a possible tourist. The perception of you can often be very different if you appear to be a professional out on shoot. If people feel this is the case you may feel great about their view of you but the downside is that they tend to be more suspicious and leery of you and your actions.
Above: Library halls in Seattle, WA
I don't mind if people give me a strange look as I am taking a photo of a sign in SF Chinatown or of people hanging out at Fishermans warf. They tend to smile and have something to talk about and I get a photo. So please enjoy being a tourist with me and looking for odd things that others may walk past even in your home town. I hope you won't avoid being a tourist and instead enjoy it but maybe you don't need that fanny pack and cheap tourist t-shirt... Just sayin'
Above: Sign at one of my favorite restaraunt's in San Francisco Chinatown
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Two lovely young ladies from Japan visiting the Washington Monument in DC
It is my firm belief that if we all blindly follow all the general rules of Photography then all of our photo's will look like cookie cutter images than art. I think the true thrill of the rules being around is for me to find ways to break them (or at least bruise them a little). It is a good in general to shoot people's face and expression and that making eye contact can render a powerful image but that should not mean that not shooting their face iresults in a bad or uninteresting photograph. I hope you will agree.
Man connecting with a window display in SF Chinatown
What are your thoughts on rules for Photography? Do you think rules are needed and we should photograph with them always in mind or should they be thought of as just a tip intended for beginers who do not yet have a feel for composition?
Woman stretching in leopard print - Northbeach, San Francisco
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I was curious how this relationship came about as most fishermen seemed to have a strong dislike for birds that compete with them for fish so I asked him about this odd friendship and the Pelican watched over us from a couple feet away. The fisherman found the Pelican several months ago sick and dying of malnutrition and kindly shared some of his fish with it. That was all it took. The Pelican visits the Fisherman often though does not seem to like other people much. The man would share some of the fish he caught and pat his friend on the head and the Pelican would stand next to him as he would cast his line again.
Tourists would come to take a photo and try and pet the Pelican as it sat so peacefully next to the fisherman only to get a cold hiss and in some cases the bird would try and bite them if they reached out to pet it but the Pelican did not mind the Fisherman’s attention at all. They were friends of a different feather but they did stick together well.
This was a good reminder to me to appreciate the side stories to the events and take a little more time to chat with folks around instead of getting caught up in just the main events.
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As tempting as it is to shoot the trees (which I also enjoy) my favorite Autumn leaf images are those of the fallen leaves that end up in interesting places. I never place them on the ground or arrange them but rather hunt for what nature has decided to do. I do not feel there is anything wrong with staging a shot like that but for me it is more of an enjoyable event when I can find them by exploration.
It was a wonderful opportunity to get close to these incredible birds of prey. It was not what I went to shoot but it was my favorite part of the event. I suppose it is always good to be flexible and also to carry a lot of lenses.
Of course I did make time to enjoy a good sword fight or two as well.
Above: Rome Kanda - Comedian and TV Game Show Host with friend
Above: Attendee who was kind enough to pose.
I am finding that a mix of candid and posed shots are really a fun way of documenting and experiencing an event and that the time spent chatting with people is very rewarding. I suppose before I was just so eager to capture every moment and had a fear of missing something that I did not take as much opportunity to chat with people much. I am slowly changing out of that mind set.
Below: Candid shot of girls hanging out before a Fashion show.
Photo above: Miki and Kei
The band is currently on their 1st US tour and with their talent I am sure it will not their last. If you get a chance their CD is available by Kizuna Media here in the U.S.
Photo above: Yumi
Dancers form a huge circle and move to folk music played from a center stage in a giant circle up and down a street in San Francisco's Little Osaka district.
Obon is a Japanese Buddhist Holiday dedicated to honoring ones ancestors who are no longer living. It is normally a day to clean graves and spend time with living relatives and it is believed that during Obon the departed visit home alters.
Bon Odori means Bon Dance and is a folk style dance that is very regional in fact even the dates Obon is celebrated is different based on region. In the U.S. Bon Odori is celebrated in many cities on the West Coast from Washington to California as well as in Hawaii. These Dancers are taking place in a rare daytime Bon Dance in San Francisco.
]]>The main argument against photography being an art seems to center around the belief that the camera does almost all of the work meaning it is a mechanical process. Push a button get a photo there is no creativity in that, or is there?
Well I have considered this a lot and looked to other Photographers for their opinions and our official response was something like of course it is so Nyaaaaa. But that seemed too simplistic and I have to fill up more space for this blog so let me expand a little on that a little. I will concede that it is true that a mechanical process must occur to prodcuce a photograph. It does not matter if it is by use of a simple man made pinhole camera using a box with a hole in it or a $7,000 DSLR that is still true but composition is the basis of our argument for photography being considered an art.
Using the infinite monkey theorem a random person can take a really great photo every once in a while after using a machine/camera but why are some photographers frequently able to put out photographs that attract attention, create an emotional response and make us pause and say wow while others rarely create an interesting photo after many failed attempts? The answer simply put is it all comes down to composition. Composition is required in all art forms. Composition brings the elements of a work of art together in a way that is visually intriguing or compelling. Just like a master painter a great photographer must use their eye to visually compose a photograph both before taking the shot and after as well by editing/developing/processing the photo.
I ask you to think about the following things the next time you see a photograph that captures your attention. If there is a person or people in the photograph, What do you think the relationships between the people are or what the relationship between the person/people in the photograph and the photographer? What do facial expressions and or body language suggest to you?
No matter what type of photo it is also consider what is in focus and what is out of focus if anything? Why do you think parts are in focus or out of focus? What is going on in the background? Do you see any writing in the photo? Does it have any significance? What was left out of the image? Lastly what mood or feeling do you receive from the image.
The photographer makes many conscious decisions about composition including what to include and exclude from a photo, the angle, the light, what is sharp and clear and what is blurred and out of focus. This is why I beleive Photography is not just a form of Art it is an important form of Art enjoyed by all cultures around the world.
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A chef in San Francisco's Chinatown takes a smoke break away from the busy city streets.
Due to the advancement of non smoking laws in California it is becoming less and less common to see people smoking in public. The alleys of Chinatown have always played by their own rules though and in a way I hope that aspect never changes. The hidden alleys hold a sense of nostalgia and intrigue that is quite unique.
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If you specialize in animal photography how do you find new animals to photograph when you have explored all your local parks and zoo's? If you love to shoot architecture you city only has so many buildings and we can't all travel at will how do you continue on? What should I shoot today, I can't think of anything. It is a kind of mental road block that I think all photographers struggle with at some time or multiple times even.
I was asked what keeps me shooting. How am I able to go out and shoot over and over again. I have given this some thought and I came up with a list of about 5 key things that I credit with helping me stay on the path of photography and may help others as well if that is their goal.
1) Diversity of interests - I think being interested in a great many things helps keep photography interesting. It is difficult to run out of things to shoot when you like to photograph people, animals, plants, toys, trees, buildings... The list goes on and on of possible things to shoot. The world has many forms of beauty.
2) Sharing with other Photographers - Belonging to a community of fellow photographers is a fantastic way to learn new things and pick up inspiration by viewing others works.
3) Feedback - Getting constructive or positive feedback can give us great drive. Showing your work to your subjects, friends, family members can be a great motivator.
4) Taking the next step - Entering photo's into exhibitions at the local fair, art galleries, coffee shops, contests etc can both be soul destroying when your photo's are not selected (and often times even for Pro's they are not always excepted) and invigorating if they are selected. Having a photo on display at a gallery is a huge inspiration to top yourself.
5) Buying something pretty - Buying a new lens or camera gear can be an aphrodisiac for the tech junkie photographer as well as being a new tool to capture images in a different way. Hey nobody said photography was a cheap hobby right?
Stay tuned for the next issue due out 7-1-2012
Got a topic you would like to discuss let me know.
]]>A friend of mine once asked me how I deal with the crowds and people walking in front of my shots and bumping into me when I go to events. I explained that I go to the event knowing that I will not get every shot that I want and those things are going to be a big part of that. Going in with the right frame of mind is critical. If you lament each shot you failed to get because somebody walked in front of you then the whole day will be wasted.
If you are interested in trying out event photography I may have some additional tips that can help you increase your odds of getting some shots you will be happy with. Please read on for some tips.
Tip 1: Bring the right tools for the job
Keep in mind the type of event you will be attending. For this article I will focus on outdoor events as these are by far the easiest and best way to start off event photography. I would suggest a good zoom lens with a wide range. Most events are far too chaotic to change your lens often and lugging around a ton of extra equipment in a busy crowded event is not so much fun for you or the people around you. If you think you have enough memory cards I suggest bring an extra anyway as they weigh next to nothing and it is better to have too many than not enough. The same concept applies to your battery as nothing is worse than having the main event starting and your battery is blinking it's final farewell to you for the day or having to try and economize your shots for fear of it running out.
Tip 2: Arrive early
I do not mean 5 minutes early I mean an hour before the event starts or more if at all possible which it often is for outdoor events like parades, street festivals etc. Why you may ask? Several reasons for this really. First you should scout out the area. Keep in mind where are the stages and other places of interest and the best places to get a good shot. Look for places to stand that are next to a solid object so someone can't bump into you or near an area where someone won't come stand in front of you. Another reason for this suggestion is that some event preparation rituals can provide better photo opportunities than the event itself.
Tip 3: Variety is the spice of life
If you stand in the same place all day your photo's will all start to look the same even if your subjects change so move around never staying in the same place too long. Try taking close-up shots of people as well as crowed shots and shots of other things at the festival besides people like signs, merchandise etc. It is really easy to fall into the trap of shooting similar things that interest you.
Tip 4: Beware of the creeper, because it could be you
We live in an era when people can be pretty suspicious of folks with camera's especially if they seem to be shooting women or children. Even though this is legal in most public places and in most countries (not all and not under all circumstances) you should be aware of your image and your mannerisms. I highly suggest that if you are serious about photography and if you don't already have some that you make business cards and bring them with you to any event or situation where you will be taking candid shots of strangers. I will sometimes take photo's of people and show them the photo on the display then give them my card and offer to send them a copy. It is a simple act of good will and gives you more visits to your website, referrals, and with any luck a good photo of a willing model but best of all it may allow you to escape the social stigma of being labeled a creeper.
Tip 5: Don't be stingy!
Shoot on rapid/burst mode. This is not a studio and you are not in control of the environment. Things move very fast and thanks to the digital age you can delete your least favorites out of a group of shots. People are going to be walking in and out of your frame, wind will cause strange things to happen and people will often blink or be caught in a strange expression while shooting candid shots. With burst mode you greatly increase your odds of getting a shot that you will be happy with.
Tip 6: Be the last man/woman standing
Event's can make for a long and exhausting day. You have been baked by the sun, experienced sensory overload from trying to see and do everything and all you want to do is take off your shoes and relax right? Well the job is not done yet. Some parting shots of the street cleaners busy at work, dropped signs, lost items, confetti can all be your and yours alone as those less diligent have gone for the day. Muster your energy for a final session you will be glad you did later.
I hope these tips help you and remember to expect the unexpected and not be a creeper.
]]>I have spoken with dozens of street photographers and read many books and interviews from street photographers from around the globe. One things is very clear to me and that is the majority of street photographers have no ill intent while going out in search of people and events to photograph. The fact is that it is really it is love and the interest of humanity and life that feeds street photographers passion. I can include myself in this group as that is what drives me to take photographs of strangers. I feel a sort of connection with the subjects of my photo's even though I have in most cases never directly met them. I spend time with their image and feel a type of connection or even a sense of friendship with them. Of course with any large collective of people their will be some acting with malice and outside the norm and some of these include perverts and those seeking to profit from others giving a negative opinion of street photographers as a group.
Street photography is so controversial because the photo's themselves are unsolicited. This causes some subjects a level of discomfort, shock and even in some cases anger hence the controversy. Still many subjects experience amusement, wonder, humor and even joy at being captured. In truth most people are never even aware they are the subject of a photo. Does the risk of making someone uncomfortable or angry mean that you have committed an immoral act? Possibly. In my humble opinion dealing strictly with morality I feel it is what is in the photographers mind or heart that is a deciding factor on whether it is moral or immoral. I feel that if a person really loves people and wants to capture something that moves them and share that feeling then they are not acting in an immoral or unethical manner on the flip side of that if someone is looking at exploiting the pain and suffering of another to make a profit or for fame this is truly immoral and unethical but again that is just my opinion.
I will provide a scenario for you to contemplate this sticky issue.
A homeless man is sleeping on the cold pavement of a city street looking clearly down on his luck. A street photographer takes a photo. Is this clearly a case of immoral behavior exploiting the homeless? It's hard to say based on only that right? Let's take a deeper look. I will give 3 scenarios to think about now.
Scenario 1: The photographer has been commissioned to capture images of the homeless for a charity drive in an effort gain attention to their plight and raise money for local homeless shelters.
Scenario 2: The photographer has seen other photo's of the homeless and was moved by them. The Photographer wanted to copy this concept and see if he/she can get published with a book and turn a profit.
Scenario 3: The photographer was homeless and wants to show others what a difficult life it is and try to compel others to show more empathy to the homeless.
Which of the above are immoral or unethical people? Are they all immoral? Are none of them immoral? Does the reason matter or is only the act of taking an unsolicited photo what makes the act moral or immoral? I will not be able to answer these for you. I know what a rip off after reading all this right? I am sorry about that but I really just want to get people thinking about this issue themselves. I am not a preacher, judge, therapist or counselor I am simply a Photographer and though I have my opinions I do not seek to will them on others. I freely share them here well because that is kind of the point of a blog right? Really I encourage you to make up your own mind though.
Now to circle back to the inspiration for this topic the Bio that I had read that in affect was condemning street photographers. The Biography stated that nobody has the right to take advantage of others and in essence that is what street photographers do by their very nature. The Bio also went on to imply that special moments are occurring all the time so there is no justification for taking photos when one can look around and see them live so only willing models should be photographed.
The person raised some good points and you may agree with these points but if I had the opportunity I would like to ask them and also ask you to consider which photographs have made the biggest impression or impact? Do you think you think of studio shots or do you recount images taken by street photographers who documented and preserved candid moment in history? For me when I think of photographs that really impacted me they are documentary or street photographs 9 times out of 10. Some that pop up for most people are the famous Le Baiser de l'Hotel de Ville, Paris by Robert Doisneau or Elevator by Robert Frank or Woman, Patzcuaro, Mexico by Paul Strand... The list goes on and on but in the end we must each decide if it is moral or not and make peace with that decision.
Thank you for reading my blog. Stay tuned for future updates.
]]>First I feel it is important to talk about what street photography is and that is no small task. Photographers have been trying to define it for a hundred plus years and I doubt I will be able to do it here. In essence street photography (also known as documentary photography) is a very broad term used to describe candid photographs taken in public. Street photography can occur at an event or in a small town cafe for example and may be a close up photo of a single person or a distant photo of an entire group of people. This too does not really describe all types of street photography as a street photograph may be of a dog standing outside a store or awaiting it's owner for example. So let's just go back to the very broad description of a candid photo taken in public to make our lives easier for now.
The goal of many street photographers goes well beyond the generic response floating about the internet which is to capture and preserve a single moment in time. Most street photographers really want to convey a powerful emotion, a unique point in time or a certain culture. Simply put they want to share life in a sense. Nothing is more exciting or gratifying for a street photographer than capturing that perfect moment when light, time, opportunity and inspiration all come together and are captured in the lens of their trusty camera.
Speaking of camera we come to the topic of gear. The camera is also oddly enough a touchy topic street photographers. There is great debate on what type of camera should be used and how to be a street photographer. Let's take a look at a few styles. The traditional Street photographer uses a wide angle lens around 20-35mm and often shoots photo's from the hip never bringing the camera up to their eye. This type of Photographer is generally against the use of larger DSLR's or any camera that you bring up to your eye to shoot. Traditionalists of the craft prefer camera's that are small with wide angle lenses as are very fast f2.0 or less. The traditional approach is a more in your face style of photographing subjects. Some people prefer to shoot from afar with zoom lenses using SLR and DSLR camera's. Many traditional purists of the art find the use of zoom lenses as very controversial. To the purist street photographer if you use a zoom lens you are an observer and not a participant which they view as important. Though I wonder if most can tell the difference. Another controversial style is the spy camera cleverly hidden in pens or buttons or used by remote. In the end any camera may be used even a cell phone but some may not consider it a true street photo depending on your choice of gear while most are fairly flexible and only judge on your results.
It is my own personal opinion that it is not the tools that you use that make you a great street photographer but rather it is what you capture via a lens that matters. Color, monochrome, wide angle, or zoom the capturing of an image that speaks to you and hopefully speaks to others as well is the true goal of any street photographer. I would love to hear your thoughts about this topic. Do you feel that street photography should be held to it's traditions by those who pioneered the art? Should street photography be more broad and progressive allowing for new tool's and techniques? Please feel free to comment on this blog or ask questions.
Next Entry - Street photography part II, ethics and morality
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